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WYC Keelboat Repair Notes

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  • Keelboat Repair Notes Table of Contents
  • General
    • Wash and scrub boats.
    • Check batteries (Total: 5 (3-grp27, 2-grp24))
    • Rotate batteries on charger.
    • Check keel boat equipment, buy and redistribute as needed.
      • Identify and list all fuses and lamp types. Purchase spares.
      • Check oil level and condition in Honda outboards.
      • Check lower unit lubricant in all outboards.
      • Evaluate battery hold downs.
      • Create emergency boxes for distress signals, 1st aid equipment, etc. -- done.
      • Check that all boats have two, 50' lock lines -- in lock line bags
      • Cut off loops on all non-50' lines to reduce confusion and encumbrance.
      • Check for type IV throwable devices for all boats.
      • Check for portable, manual bilge pumps on all boats.
      • Check for bucket, stiff brush and handle, general purpose cleaner, and dry paper towels on all boats
      • Check for 2 paddles on all boats
      • Check that no porta-potties are on the boats
      • Get and keep spinnaker sheets with each spinnaker.
      • Inventory toolboxes, mark tools with boat name.
        • Pliers -- standard adjustable pivot.
        • Pliers -- needle nose.
        • Pliers -- diagonal cutting.
        • Pliers -- Vise Grips.
        • Pliers -- channel lock.
        • Wrench -- adjustable.
        • Wrench -- spark plug.
        • Screwdriver -- large slotted.
        • Screwdriver -- small slotted.
        • Screwdriver -- large phillips.
        • Screwdriver -- small phillips.
        • Electrical tape.
        • 'Duct' tape.
        • Split rings.
        • Cotter pins.
        • Clevis pins.
        • Replacement fuses.
        • Replacement bulbs.
        • Replacement spark plugs (2).
    • Post more instructions for keel boats.
      • Post clarification of checking out more than two weeks in advance.
      • Post no-refund policy.
      • Post battery charging, testing, and use instructions.
      • Post Head / Port-a-potti use responsibilities and instructions. (Bill Greve)
      • Create 'Operator's Manual' for each boat. (w/ log book?)
    • Replace battery charger with sealed, multi-bank, automatic battery charger. Crow's Nest has several possibilities ranging from $150 to $300. A charger which can charge each bank independently at 7-10A per bank would be ideal. -- approved. DONE
      • Set up boats, batteries, and charger with polarized, fool-resistant plugs.
        • Call LIFT PARTS NW (206) 763-1108 for price on P/N SY50 and AN134.
      • Copy and laminate instructions.
    • Check porta-pottie operation / clean.
    • Buy basic battery load tester for determining battery charge. (~$50)
    • Clean Gas Locker(Done)
    • Maintain 2 operable fuels tanks per boat. (buy metal tanks as needed)
    • Check and replace hoses as needed.
    • Check alternator output on the outboards.
  • Charlotte a Catalina 27'
    • Some basic instructions for Charlotte
    • General repairs
      • Replace battery holddown. (w/ two battery holddown)
      • Clean Cabin
      • Repair/Replace front stove burner. -- done.
      • Clean cutting board.
      • Replace bilge cover with something less absorbent and more latch-able.
    • Sails / Rigging
      • Find replacement lapper -- Done (still needs to be labeled)

        Fore triangle:
        luff = 35'
        J = 10.5'
        I = 33'11"
        Old lapper: 31'6", 28', 12'1"

      • Add stop to prevent boom from being pulled too low.
      • Re-work mainsail track pin to not rip sail.
      • Replace traveler stops. (In progress -- Greg Branch)
      • Replace traveler car. (In progress -- Greg Branch)
      • Make new mainsail cover. ($200 Material purchased -- Andy S.)
      • Evaluate need for mains'l halyard winch with new 1/4" kevlar halyard.
      • Evaluate need for second reef point. -- Added.
      • Re-rig for 2nd reefing point.
      • Evaluate reef point clew ring -- add clew reefing line?
      • Add second tack fitting for changing jibs.
      • Rig for spinnaker (sym. or asym.)
        • Add block for spinnaker topping lift.
        • Add spinnaker track.
        • Build spinnaker pole.
        • Add block for spinnaker pole downhaul.
    • Engine
      • rebuild or replace outboard -- engine siezed.
      • Attach linkages for throttle / shift lever.
      • Refill tool box: 2 10/7.5HP Honda spark plugs.
    • Hull
      • Blend/Match hull repair (starboard side)
    • Electrical
      • Identify all bulb and fuse type on boat
      • Replace compass lamp and wind speed lamp
      • Mount fuse holder for steaming/anchor lamp power. 19/32" bit (5/8" will do)
      • Trace electrical, label and re-wire as necessary. -- main panel re-built and rewired. Need to continue with labeling battery leads and cleaning up other wiring.
      • Label steaming lamp/anchor lamp switch.
      • Re-label deck lamp switch (was anchor lamp?).
      • Label bilge pump switch.
      • Remove non-functioning tape deck.
    • Plumbing
      • Rebuild head pump.
      • Rebuild head intake and outflow valves
      • Replace y-valve lock Rig short pice of wire rope with loops in each end.
      • Check and replace head intake seacock if needed.
      • Re-plumb head. Double clamp. Improve access. Add anti-siphon valves.
      • Attach holding tank in place.
      • Mount head use instructions and list of pump-out stations.
      • Check into attaching a new barbed hose fitting to the water tank.
      • Install manual 'whale gusher' bilge pump. Accessible from cockpit.
  • Columbia 26'
    • General Repairs
      • Forward hatch cracked -- rebuild or replace.(In progress, Tom Q.)
      • Replace Lazarrette covers. (Done, Susan Yount)
      • Clean cabin.
      • Oil interior wood
      • Sand and oil exterior wood.
      • Find tank and pump for alcohol stove.
      • Find teak cutting board that belongs on the boat.
      • Need good sailing pictures of Columbia for advertising. (Done -- John P.)
      • Sell boat $6000 OBO. Motion passed http://students.washington.edu/sailing/00 meeting. (Bob to handle sale in Motion passes http://students.washington.edu/sailing/00 meeting.) (More recent motion -- Justin to handle sale of Columbia)
    • Sails/Rigging
      • Add second tack fitting.
      • Rig for spinnaker (sym. or asym.)
    • Hull
      • Check zinc on keel.
      • Match gel coat on hull repair (starboard side)
      • Gel coat and blend wear spot (starboard side)
      • Patch gel coat damage -- with matched gel coat.
    • Electrical
      • Repair battery connections, install ground and power bar if necessary. (Patched for now. Positive wire needs to be replaced -- bad splice.) -- Done.
      • Identify all bulb and fuse types on boat.
    • Engine
    • Plumbing
  • Neptune 24'
  • Bristol Caravel 22'
    • General
      • Remount fire-extinguisher (Randy?)
      • Re-glass forward end of port side shelf to hull
      • Clean cabin.
      • Refill tool box: 2 10/7.5HP Honda spark plugs, plug wrench, split rings
      • Repair / Replace alcohol stove.
      • Repair / Improve table mount.
    • Sails / Rigging
      • Replace boom-vang to bail shackle.
      • Replace missing short tack fitting in lower hole. This short fitting is needed for the Genoa to be tensioned properly.
      • Adjust forestay / backstay to allow proper genoa tension
      • Replace Jib Halyard. To allow proper luff tension and replace broken wires.
      • Add telltales (3) to the leech of the main.
    • Engine
      • Check oil.
      • Check on cause of back fire.
    • Hull
      • Glue companionway hatch back together
      • Clean deck and cabin.
      • Rebed port stanchions -- topside only, core needs a way to dry out.

        This is mostly done, still need to seal cracks in deck around stanchions until the core can be repaired.

      • Repair rotted deck core around aft/port stanchion. (doesn't appear to have been bedded properly)
      • Repair starboard, aft quarter with fiberglass -- hole in corner. (outside done -- finish inside.
      • Paint the topsides (port and starboard done -- clean and paint transom.)
      • Bed and install new screws in new coaming pieces. (Current screw holes are stripped and need to be filled then re-drilled.)
      • Find source of leaks from deck/cabin house.
    • Electrical
      • Check radio operation
      • Repair battery connections -- install ground and power bars.
      • Identify all bulb and fuse types on boat.
      • Label Radio switch and steaming light switch.
      • Replace forward and starboard cabin lights.
      • Re-wire. Use proper marine grade wire and fittings.
    • Plumbing
      • Check seacock condition
  • Ranger 26'
    • General
      • Cut new companion way boards.
      • Add CO detector and protect lines from exhaust OR remove heater.
    • Sails/Rigging
      • Replace all running rigging.

        Cut lines, must be long enough to reach past cabin winches when halyards are in "stored" position. Splice fittings on halyards, back splice bitter ends. Note special splice required if Kevlar.

        • Main halyard (85'+).
        • Starboard jib halyard (85'+).
        • Port jib halyard (85'+).
        • Spinnaker halyard (85'+).
        • Spinnaker topping lift (70'+/-).
      • Check and replace standing rigging as needed. (~$1000)
      • Check and replace blocks as needed.
      • Replace upper exit blocks/sheaves as needed for all rope halyards.
      • Replace masthead sheaves.

        We have 2" delrin sheaves. If we use these we need to cut a new, thinner separator. We will also need to make a spacer for the fourth. The for the halyards to enter into the main part of the mast will also need to be enlarged and moved to keep the halyards from being shredded. Cut large hole in top of mast, use acess to cut larger holes for halyards.

        Option 2: locate or MAKE three 3/8"IDx?"ODx1/2" sheaves for rope. Diameter of sheaves must put align halyard exactly with holes to prevent chafing. Holes have been enlarged, enlarge further?

      • Install lower halyard sheaves in destroyed exit blocks(arrived -- Andy)
      • Rebuild/recreate lower exit blocks to install lower sheaves in.

        These were double halyard exit blocks, machined out of a block of aluminum w/ a face plate welded on.

        A single structure which takes the place of both double exit blocks could be made from 3 sheets of 1/8" aluminum placed crosswise to the mast, sticking out of the exit block holes, with the two pairs of sheaves between them. We have the necessary SS rod to act as shafts for the sheaves. The shafts would have holes drilled through each end for cotter pins.

        The assembly could be kept in place, crosswise, by either of a couple of methods. 1) use two more sheets of aluminum outside the three, just long enough to have an interference fit with the inside measurement of the mast. 2) Use "angle iron" (aluminum) pieces that are screwed into the mast (at the existing screw holes) and screwed into the assembly pieces.

      • cut aluminum plate for to of mast, to cover holes and to mount anchor light, antenna, windex, and windex light on.
      • Install Windex.
      • Move "deck" lamp/change fixture to reduce interference with halyards.
      • Make new sail cover. (~$200)
    • Engine
      • Assemble another Honda outboard ~10HP.
      • Mount and test outboard
    • Hull
      • Grind out larger blisters and fill (next haulout)
      • Sandblast, Coal Tar Epoxy, Copperpoxy, etc. keel (next haulout)
      • Rebed all deck hardware.

        Jam cleats on starboard aft cabin top started. Pick bedding compound out of unused holes and fill with gel-coat. Next, continue to rebed all deck hardware.

      • Improve all stanchion backing plates. (%20 larger than top plate surface.)(Done)

        Make templates of current backing plates/hole patterns/maximum limits.(Done)

        Make templates for new backing plates.(Done)

        Purchase 316 Stainless Steel sheet (1/16th") to cut backing plates out of.(Done -- Debbie)

        Cut backing plates.(Done)

        Drill backing plates.(mostly done - drill starboard spinnaker sheet turing block.)

        Install (stack new and old backing plates) and bed.

      • Rebuild starboard setee.
        • Remove rotted setee parts. (Done.)
        • Grind back old tabbing, remove all paint, 4-6" on each side of bulkheads. Grind to clean surface but do not grind into large roving. (Hull side done -- Victor) (Next -- grind tabs on inner fore and aft bulkhead. -- Done)
        • Dry out boat -- seal backing plates, pump -- almost done.
        • Clean up fiberglass grinding dust -- Done.
        • Cut, fit, and shape Divinicell Foam. (Placed between bulkheads and hull.)
        • Cut and fit 3 new support bulkheads.
        • Coat bulkheads with polyester resin.

          Should have a 1/4" to 1/2" space between bulkhead and hull to be filled with foam to prevent hard spots. 2 have been cut, need to be fitted w/ 1/4" space. Foam should have fillet shape on each side of bulkhead. Need to determine how to handle aft most bulkhead between the cabin and lazarette.

        • glass in new bulkheads (Evan)
        • Cut and fit new top.
        • Glass and screw in top (as original)
        • Paint/seal all exposed wood in setee.
      • Make new cushions.
    • Electrical
      • Install conduit in mast to prevent tangles with halyards.
        • Purchase 36 feet of 1" PVC pipe and necessary fittings.(Done)
        • Assemble with tee fitting (1/2") for steaming light. (Done)
        • Grind side of fittings flush to allow maximum contact with mast.(Needs to be done more)
        • Apply glue, aluminum primer to inside surface of mast where conduit will contact. (Aft, starboard side of mainsail track.)
        • Apply glue, PVC primer to conduit where it will contact mast.
        • Apply silicon to PVC where it will contact mast, insert in mast, roll into position when fully inserted.
      • Wire mast.
        • Fish wires.
        • Install a legal steaming light.
        • Install a deck light?
        • Install an anchor light
        • Replace windex light
      • Fish wire from mast step to main electical panel in boat.

        Holes drilled off alignment, need to be reconfigured to allow wires to fit(Done). Bed and bolt down mast step(Done). Seal through deck after wires fished.

      • Build electrical panel/box.
        • Sides, back, and cover cut, fitted, and coated w/ penatrating epoxy.
        • Large holes cut for main power switch and voltmeter.
        • Drill holes for mounting screws.
        • Cut square-ish hole for breaker panel.
        • Mount Breaker panel, Main power switch, and voltmeter.
        • Mount fuse blocks and power bus bars to back panel.
        • Drill holes in side pieces for wires.
        • Wire electrical.
      • Install new main electrical panel.
        • main power switch/fuse
        • sailing light switch/fuse
        • steaming light switch/fuse
        • anchor light switch/fuse?
        • deck light switch/fuse?
        • radio switch/fuse
        • cabin light switch/fuse
        • auxillary (12 volt socket) switch/fuse
      • Install a legal bow light.
      • Install a legal stern light.
      • Modify to fool-resistant battery install / hookup.
    • Plumbing
      • Replace all deck / cockpit drain plumbing.

        Need a 3 to 1 connector with a clean out installed above the water line.

      • Plumb holding tank or porta-pottie. (Andrew)
      • Build strum box for lazarette pump.
      • Add built in main cabin pump?
      • Purchase manual portable bilge pump.

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    Last Modified: Friday, 15-Nov-2013 09:07:22 PST